Need a big brake?
Sick of the small brakes on your Aussie Model/Base model or just need a big break from small dinky brakes and need some of that sweet OEM ‘BBK’ to fill out that gap between your discs and wheels. Read on!
This applies mainly to the Australian model of 1st Gen Echos/Platz/Yaris/Vitz (NCP10,12,13) as all trims we received got shafted with the small dinky 235mm discs and calipers. Other markets already have this exact setup can easily transfer brake parts from the high trim (255mm discs & calipers) to the base trim (235mm discs and calipers).
This also will be useful for people who order ‘NCP13’ rotors on the Australian Sportivo model only to find out it doesn’t fit because Australia got the small calipers & rotor.
After experiencing brake failure from the last trackday (way back in March 2018) I kept driving around for months thinking that the left caliper had failed/is failing as it seems to have little or uneven clamping force when the pedals are pressed causing it to veer/pull strongly to the right though it could be alleviated with pumping the pedal. Probably should’ve got that fixed straight away but hey I was looking into it and I was poor.
Months passed looking at parts catalogues, referencing part numbers and calling wreckers till I finally managed to source some reasonable set of used calipers with caliper carrier from an MR2 Spyder (ZZW30) which should bolt onto the Echo’s steering knuckle. From this I could finally:
- ‘Fix’ my braking issue
- Get the ‘BBK’ look by filling out that empty void
- Better stopping power and thermal mass from bigger discs without messing up the brake bias as it has the same piston area.
Parts need for the OEM BBK for the Echo is:
- MR2 Spyder (ZZW30) brake pads of your choice
- 255mm front rotor from the MR2 Spyder (ZZW30)
- Front calipers 47730-17150 (Right) & 47750-17150 (Left) from the MR2 Spyder (ZZW30)
- Caliper carriers/mounting bracket 47721-52020 (Right) & 47722-52020 (Left) from the MR2 Spyder (ZZW30)
Usually, if you find used calipers they’ll come with the mounting bracket but I’m listing the part numbers just in case. Since these calipers were used I also bought a brake caliper rebuild kit to refresh the calipers.
The default option for me was to go Project Mu and get the HC+ pads as I loved them on the small caliper setup but I decided to try some Endless CC-RG pads (Pad Shape: EP382) as I wanted to try a pad with really good pedal modulation/control while having really stopping power, and happen I found them dirt cheap on Yahoo Auctions ‘used’ but it seems the person bought the wrong pads and relisted them.
The disc rotors I bought were the OEM replacement from DBA’s. Got them for a steal of $50 from a promotional sale. Here’s a comparison between 235mm & 255mm.
To install these “monster” of a sized brake setup 😛 we need to remove the brake dust shield. You’ll need to remove 3 Torq screws, I think T10 or T15 sized or use a 10mm socket/spanner.
Depending if you want to keep that dust shield, you’ll need to remove the wheel hub and shaft but that’s too much effort nor do I plan on keeping so I pulled out the angle grinder and it cut it off as shown.
When I bought these calipers I thought they would need a rebuild as I thought saw the dust boot split but upon closer inspection whilst trying to rebuild it they were perfectly fine. Could’ve just bolted them on but hey at least they’ve been refreshed and I won’t have to worry about them. If you’re wondering how to rebuild a brake caliper here’s a good video on how:
If you plan on rebuilding any of the calipers for a Echo, MR2 Spyder or any other models shown in the link, the kit I used is from Febest – Part No. 0175-SCP10F
To remove the brake piston I used this method as I had access to an air compressor just watch those fingers as the air compressor has so much more kick to a portable one.
Inspect the cylinder and piston for pitting then clean and wipe the cylinder & piston as cleanly as possible using brake cleaner then coat the cylinder wall with your brake fluid of choice
Cover the piston seal with brake fluid and carefully install the piston seal into the groove where the piston seal will sit. You can use a pick or small screwdriver just be careful not to score the walls or tear the seals
Next is to install the dust seal and ring. This job was the worst part of the whole caliper rebuild process which isn’t too hard just takes a bit of time.
Once the dust seal is seated it’s time to insert the ring to hold it in place.
Lastly its time to push the piston back in and line up the dust seal groove on the piston’s dust seal groove and you’re almost set..
Inspect and clean up the slider pins & seals then lube it up good and stick it in and out to spread it all about then maybe a good twist here and there or as Salt-N-Pepa once said ‘Push It’.
Basically, time to bleed the brakes and bed in the rotors & pads. Upon pushing onto the pedal the car veered again, it turns out it wasn’t the calipers, the issue turned out to be my brake lines as then after some diagnosis I swapped the lines and the car then veered the other direction.
Annoyed I went to blow out lines with compressed air and straightened out the lines overnight to iron out any kinks in my HEL lines. This seems to have fixed the issue as I’ve yet to have any braking issue since.
My initial impressions of these pads is wow, they stop amazing but with amazing control, I could easily feel out when the brakes were locking up or on the verge of locking up I could ease off and modulate the pedal. I’m glad I got to try out these pads but my only gripe is that they’re really expensive almost double the price of HC+ pads had I paid full price.
Highly recommend these pads if you want absolute performance and controllability but when the time comes around to replace it’ll be really hard for me to juggle between Project Mu HC+ and these Endless CC-RG pads but we’ll cross that road again when we get there.
Now I got a pair of 235mm rotors, calipers and pads which still have 80% life in them lying around that didn’t need replacement *facepalm*. Anyone wanna buy? 😛